So, for those who don't know, I live on an agricultural island 10mi N. of DT Portland, Oregon. Usually pretty sedate, around this time it becomes the land of pumpkins. Combine 3 truck farms with one bridge, (currently being replaced) and you are looking at a line of traffic 3+ miles long waiting to get off the bridge. 1 HOUR, 45 MINUTES for what usually takes 3 minutes, tops! Thank god the knitting was in the bag next to me: Knit 30 stitches, move 5 feet. Knit a row, move 20 feet. I'm getting to the point where I NEVER want to be without at least a sock to work on. Wasted time drives me NUTS! My Ranger isn't a very roomy place to work in, I have to admit, especially with the gym bag, change of clothes, knitting bag, portfolio, laptop, jacket, etc etc etc on the seat next to me. Bob: The homeless knitter living out of his car. Sometimes it seems as such. sigh...
Today, I learned how to do the Norwegian purl stitch (continental) after an embarrassingly long time of watching and rewatching the instructional video. I then practiced it, trying various combinations of knit and purl stitches (again, continental) along with my usual contintental purl stitch. I must say that after a few hours of practice I was able to get my gauge (and "tension") under control and am now quite pleased with doing this purl method, preferring it over my old way of purling. There are a few more hand/finger movements involved but I think it's easier to execute.
Anyone else using this purl stitch?
Has anyone noticed that some sweaters create a man-boobie effect? I think it is especially apparent if the sleeves aren't shaped at the top, or on a fitted sweater with stripes. All of a sudden, you look like a b-cup. (and in a bad way). Has anyone else noticed, have any insight in eliminating the heartbreak of man-boobies, outside of diet and working out?
It took forever, but I got a zipper band that I am very happy with for the sweater: I picked up stitches through the inside edge of the cardigan, and knit 8 rows in stockinette stitch on the outside and 3 row's +cast off on the inside (same pick up stitches) to form a "V" in which the zipper sits. The outer band rolls back on itself just shy of the actual zip, and looks like a double I cord band down the center of the cardigan. Looks great, won't catch, and is finished on both inside and outside. Hooray.
I am thinking about going to the dark side and learning how to spin. Any input and/or advice you might have would be most appreciated.
Rhinebeck (aka New York Sheep & Wool Festival) starts tomorrow! David drove down yesterday evening to get our booth set up, and I rode down with a friend this evening. We're going to be headquarters for Rhinebeck Blogger Bingo and Ms. Stitchy McYarnpants herself will be signing books at our booth both days. If you're going to be here, please stop by and say hello. We're in booth D in Barn 39. There's a map of the fairgrounds here.
Going to tour the condo this afternoon at 5pm. I feel good about it. Plus!!!!! My 'date' of Friday the 13th called last night and we talked about an hour. WooHoo!
Going to have to hire a shepard to get all the wool to the new place if I buy it.
Happy knitting to all!
or how to knit a "Picture Afghan"
Something I enjoyed in crochet - and which frustrated me with knitting was the ability in crochet to easily create filet mesh "pictures". done in a heavier yarn they make nice afghans. Or filet mesh geometric patterns made complex looking but mindless-to-work patterns.
Which was a reason I purchased 'A Gathering of Lace'. In that book there is a technique for filet knitting - they use it in the round to work a graphed picture of a unicorn.
To use the technique in back and forth knitting (such as for a blanket or afghan or laprobe or wall hanging or door screen or window shade) is a little more complicated - but I worked it out last year to knit a dragon stole for my niece's Mother-in-law.
The technique uses 2 stiches x 3 rows for each square in a graphed pattern. The meshes are either "filled" or "empty". You're aiming for a stockinette fabric - so in addition to the 2 stitches per square you also want to allow for some edge stitches to prevent curling and you also have to add 1 stitch per row to make things balance out. or subtract one edge stitch.
(each square worked "loans" a stitch to an adjacent square to complete it)
But since it takes 3 rows of knitting to work a row of graphed squares, you are working every other row of squares in opposing directions. (confused yet? believe me - I was!) So odd rows are worked one way and even rows another...sorta
WPA poster on display at the Smithsonian.