Update: Question about Sock Pattern Chart

Hello Guys,
I found a pattern for a pair of socks that I think I'll make. I have a question though, the charts are numbered with odd numbers up the right side and even up the left side. I made an afghan like that and found that I had to read the odd numbered rows from right to left and then the even numbered rows from left to right. I am attaching the pattern that was free to download from Ravelry. Would someone please look at charts on page 4 and see what you think. My best guess is that all the rows start at the right-hand side and work left, then reading the even rounds, change the dots (purl) to dots (knit) and visa versa.

After studying it for awhile, I see that the pattern is bilaterally symmetrical, so perhaps it doesn't really make a difference. I'd still like someone else take a look at it to let me know what you think.

I'm also trying to find a good way to begin rows with purl stitches without getting "ladders".


PDF icon get_well_soon_socks.pdf173.91 KB


indywood's picture

That was how I was taught to read a pattern graph,but have never done it in the round.

ronhuber's picture

She said that every row is worked on the right side and every row has black dots for purl stitches . I think the rounds are numbered that way for the sake of space. The charts should just be read continuously as you are not working back and forth. Good luck on the purl stitches. You are my hero if you can overcome that one.

CLABBERS's picture

Hi Ron,
I modified the pattern to reduce the number of purl stitches between the cables on the left and right of the instep while adding three knit stitches at the beginning and end of each instep row. I'm not sure how I will modify the back of the leg, but I'll figure something out when I get there.

ronhuber's picture

Good thinking, Mark.

Joe-in Wyoming's picture

Since the rounds are mainly purl stitches you could try wrapping the yarn from the bottom over the top, as you would knit stitches. That would eliminate the slightly longer wrap found with purls and make it easier to snug them up, especially if you give the second stitch on the needle an extra tug to help tighten things up. Since you will be stacking purls on purls, the stitches probably won't twist and if you have a knit stitch arrive, you could always knit it through the back loop to realign it properly. Still, to make certain this will be the case, I'd work a test swatch to get used to the reversed wrap on the purls and ensure they don't twist.

Nice looking socks, BTW. Let us know how they turn out.

Books, knitting, cats, fountain pens...Life is Good.

CLABBERS's picture

Thanks, guys. I will see what I can do with your suggestions.

Tallguy's picture

Yes, that is the correct way charts are written. Or at least, most charts. Of course, every designer will do it his or her own way -- which can be confusing! Don't let it bother you -- just remember to do what the chart says and not worry about following some numbers on the side! That is only to keep track of where you are -- if you need that.

You don't need to worry about right side/wrong side, since these are socks, so you are going to be working from the right side always! Blankets are quite different from socks! :-)

To avoid ladders, everybody had a different method. Try them all and see which works best for YOU. You will have your own preference.

As for me, I like to move my corners often. That is, I will mark the start of a round. Who cares where that is, as long as you know when you get to it. I always put the start of a round in the middle of a needle -- that works for me. And of course, I always try to work my socks on four needles, using a fifth. Or better yet, I use the Magic Loop method, and don't have any corners!!

Every 3-5 rounds, I will move where the needles meet to a different point. So I will knit 2 more stitches from the next needle when I come to the end of a needle, all the way around. So effectively, my needle joins has now shifted over 2 stitches. If I do get some ladders, they will be scattered throughout the sock, and not in one column and will not even be noticed. If you move often enough, there won't be a chance for the ladder to develop (you know that gap gets longer every round). With cables, that is not as easy to do, so you may have to become creative in how you do this. It works best on stocking stitch or 2/2 rib.

I also make sure I pull the yarn tight for TWO stitches, after I change needles -- the first to tighten, the second to lock it in. That usually works. Make sure your new needle is tight up close to where the last needle ended -- don't allow any gap to sneak in between those needles! And just practice -- it does get better!

CLABBERS's picture

Thanks for the good advice.

CLABBERS's picture

Making progress on the sock. The modification to the original pattern is working well. I am using the Evil Sock Genius for everything except the instep and the leg.