HELP!!!!! Shaped sleeve head in the round

Dear knitting brethren,

I'm making a cardigan for a friend in thick wool (Rowan country) and am free-wheeling with the pattern a bit. I've made the body twice (the first one was big enough for 3 people) and I've adapted it by making the body in one piece as the wool seemed too thick for lots of seams and sewing.

I'm at the stage of having a body joined at the shoulders and have picked up 54 stitches around the armhole to start the sleeve The pattern I'm kind of using has a shaped sleeve head and shaped body and I'm wondering what to do at the top of the sleeve. I'm assuming some wrapping and turning but how many stictches should knit before doing this manouvre???

Any thoughts gratefully received



QueerJoe's picture

Typically the rounded top to a fitted sleeve is about 2-3 inches on top of the widest part of the sleeve top.

If you can get a sense about how many rows that would be with your bulky yarn gauge, it should give you a sense about how many short rows to do before you start knitting all 54 stitches.

Once you know that, you should divide that number into 54 to figure out how many stitches you'll add on for each successive short-row...make sense?

If for instance, you gauge is 4.5 rows per inch, you'll want about 10-12 short rows before knitting the full 54 stitches. We'll choose 11 short rows...which means you'll add about 5 sts per row to each successive short-row...your row knitting will look something like this:

Sleeve Cap:
Row 1: Knit 32 (half of your sts plus 5), wrap and turn.
Row 2: Purl 10, wrap and turn
Row 3: Knit 15, w& t
Row 4: Purl 20, w&t
Row 5: Knit 25, w&t
Row 6: Purl 30, w&t
Row 7: Knit 35, w&t
Row 8: Purl 40, w&t
Row 9: Knit 45, w&t
Row 10: Purl 50, w&t
Row 11: Knit 54

Just make sure as you pass by each wrap and turn, during these short rows, you pick up the wrap with the knit or purl stitch.

Hope this helps.

ronhuber's picture

Golly, Joe, you have the ability to explain something very well. Hope you don't mind if we all use this. I presume, that when you say knit 32 in row l you knit to the top of the cap and then 5 more. Or do I presume incorrectly? I have seen formula such as 2Q - 5R + 16K x 22% of 82P. You have demystified the whole process. I can just see it clearly in my mind's eye. Thank you so much. Did you use this system when you made your mom's sweater at Christmas?

Bill's picture

You can measure the entire armscye and add 1.5 inches for ease...that's all you need.

hsfg's picture

This will give an idea of how I work the sleeve "top Down" on 54 sts>
The stitches you picked up should be something like this:
Pick Up Sleeve Sts-- RS toward you
pick up 5 bound off sts,
[pick up 1 sts, skip 1 row] 2x
[pick up 2 sts, skip 1 row] 10x to shoulder.
From shoulder down
[pick up 2 sts, skip 1 row] 10x,
[pick up 1 sts, skip 1 row] 2x,
pick up 5 bound off sts.
Shape Cap
1.Turn. Work 36 sts, wrap*, turn.
2. Work 18 sts, wrap*, turn.
3. Work next row to where you wrap & turn before,
Pick up wrap . Wrap & turn.
Repeat step 3 until all sts are worked except bound off underarm sts.
Work final row across all sts.


QueerJoe's picture

Hey Ron...glad it could be of use. I love working out word problems when I studied math, so this is just like that for me.

The 32 stitches in the first row is indeed working to the top of the cap and then 5 fact I find that description much more visually easy to interpret than my own.

I didn't use that system on my mom's sweater...I knit the sleeves for that sweater from the cuff up to the cap and did standard bind-off shaping. I did use the short-row/cap-down method I described above for some other sweater, but I just can't remember which one.