Update on JF sweater

Hi guys.

Just thought I would post an update on my progress on my Jaqueline Fee sweater.

Well after deciding to frog both sleeves for the 3rd time due to the bingo wing situation I finally cracked it. I did originally decide just to frog down a few rows but thought I may aswell do the lot, that way I could space the increases more evenly and the finished sleeves would look a lot neater.

The first few attempts of the sleeves I used the make 1 away increase as shown on knitting help. This increase was practically invisable to the untrained eye and was very happy with the results, but while re-knitting the sleeves the last time I thought I would try the bar increase as recomended in the JF book. I have to say I prefer the appearance of the make 1 away increase. The bar increase seems to be slightly more visible. Oh well, maybe I'll use the make 1 away on my next sweater.

I've just finished attaching the sleeves to the main body and have worked a few rows. I have got a couple more rows to work then I can start the raglan decreasing.

As there are now over 300 or so stitches on the needles I decided to use my new set of Denise interchangable needles as the chord on the fixed needle I felt was to short. I have to admit that I am finding this a little hard going due to the number of stitches and spending ages pulling the stitches around to the other side. I suppose its taking me about 40 mins or so just to knit 1 row. Im sure it well get easier when I start decreasing.

I have to say that I do prefer working with metal needles, the stitches seem to slide better however, I like the idea of being able to mix and match the needles and chords with the enise set. Does anyone know if there is another set smilar to the Denise but with metal needles??

Anyway. back to it. Thanks for listening guys and sorry to bore you all.  Smile



ronhuber's picture

Congratulations on the prgress you are making.  It is also great that you are learning about the different types of increases you can make.   I often use a visible increase as a design feature and also like a visible one for making increases on sleeves and can then count rows and have no need of pencil and paper.  I think the important thing is that you know how to make different ones but that YOU decide which one you would like to use.  Elizabeth Zimmermann always used a firm backward loop as a M1.  Her daughter, Meg Swansen, uses the thread between the two stitches.  Like you, I am not a big fan of the Denise needles.  I find them and wooden ones quite laborious, however, I know many people use them and produce wonderful articles with them.  I just feel bad I spent so much on them before I knew whether I liked them or not.  I think it is wonderful you have tackled a sweater and am sure you are learning so much in the process. 

Tallguy's picture

Norfolk, I don't quite understand what you mean by "pulling the stitches around to the other side."  Are you knitting in the round?  There shouldn't have to be any pulling of stitches anywhere to any side.  Unless I don't understand what you are doing.

 The only problems I can see is if you are tight knitter, and the stitches don't slide easily along the needles.  In that case, LOOSEN UP -- or get the metal needles.  Yes, there is a good set just out: the KnitPicks Options http://knitpicks.com/needles/Needles_Options.aspx. They are the current rage, and are on backorder.  There was a big discussion on them recently; some like them, some don't.  Each to his own, I guess.  There are good reasons for using each kind.

I know what you mean - when you're knitting in the round you have to keep moving the whole work along the needle from time to time to ensure that there is enough bulk of working stitches on the left hand side.  A pain isn't it!

If you're constantly having to readjust the stitches, try using a shorter needle.  When the needle length and number of stitches are ideally matched they will move around almost effortlessly.  When "ideal" isn't possible, I prefer needles that are a little too short over those that are too long.

kiwiknitter's picture

I had the same difficulty with all those stitches on a 24" needle.  All my reading says to use a 24" when the sleeves and body are joined.  I tugged the stitches around until the blessed moment of beginning the raglan decreases.  I had given some thought to switching to a 32" but decided it was just another needle change that I could probably void.  However, that being said, I may just give it a go on the jersey I'm about to start when I get to that point. 

Friends don't let friends knit drunk.

Never trust a man who, when left alone in a room with a tea cozy, doesn't try it on.  ~Billy Connolly