Joining cast-on ends on a circular knitting project

Does anyone have a tip or trick of a good way to join the
cast-on ends of circular knitting without the stitches twisting?


smalltownknitguy's picture

If I am making a hat, I usually cast on to a short circular needle. It is easier to make sure it is not twisted on a 16" circular. I will knit a few rounds, then switch to a long circular for magic loop knitting. Eunny Jang also suggests to cast on, knit one row flat, then join for knitting in the round. It is easier to make sure you are not twisted with the extra row on the needles. Hope this helps.

Joe-in Wyoming's picture

"...cast on, knit one row flat, then join for knitting in the round..." - I often do this as well, learning it many years ago from an article about a sweater designer's work. It's nice to know that Ms. Jang is also teaching it. Using the tail of the cast on to bridge that tiny gap isn't too big of a deal; I usually weave the end into the ribbing on the inside. I use it with both dpns and circulars.

Books, knitting, cats, fountain pens...Life is Good.

Bill's picture

Rob, I usually knit about three rows before joining into a circle...makes it easier to avoid a twist...then sew the little opening closed with the tail from the cast-on.

AKQGuy's picture

If i'm working a small project I often cast on with DPN's. For some reason I find it easier to make sure I'm not twisted with those. I think it's due to the stitches sitting firmly on a full width needle. On a circular needle the cable is thinner and allows the stitches to kind of flop wherever they want. After I have the project connected in the round I may move to a circular in the next round. But to be honest, if it's a hat or something else I'll be decreasing down on, I'll stay on the DPN's. But then I like DPN's myself. I know many knitters are intimidated by the "crown of thorns" of DPN's, have tensioning issues or laddering between needles and any number of issues with them. Once again it just come down to the knitters preference/comfort level. Good luck finding a solution that works for you!

robstrauss's picture

thanks. These are all good suggestions. I have no problem working on dpns for socks, so I'll give this a try for the hat I'm working on. Also, maybe I'll work with bamboo dpns before moving over to metal.

AKQGuy's picture

Definately, if you're a loose knitter bamboo can help with not dropping needles and keeping frustraions low. I prefer bamboo myself for larger gauge projects and tend to mobe to metal for snaller gauge and tighter knitting projects such as socks.

Bill's picture

Rob, If you want the slickness of metal...consider the stainless steel needles by CiaoGoo or Hiya Hiya...they're hollow, so they're not heavy and don't tend to fall out of a sock as easily.
I switched to stainless steel double points...and love them!
Both companies have ravelry groups.
...the needles are available on line through many different shops.

scottly's picture

It's one of those things that experience finally prevents. When I first started knitting in the round I always had that problem now I never do and I didn't learn any tricks - I just got better at knowing what I was looking at.

Kerry's picture

I tend to cast on one extra stitch and then knit the first and last stitches together when I join up. The other thing I sometimes do is cast on on two dpns held together so the cast on edge is not too tight, then spread the stitches around 4 needles.

Thomasknits's picture

Knitting a row or two flat is always a good idea, and it has one added benefit. Once you use the cast-on tail to sew up the little gap, your tail is now coming out a couple rows up the knitting, instead of right at the edge... When you weave the end in, you can get even further from the edge on the backside so that you have less chance of seeing the end.

What I do to make sure everything isn't twisted: Before joining, I place all the stitches towards the inside of the circular needle. For the first round you can pretend that you knitting will grow towards the center of the circle, and it's easier for you to see a twist where the yarn blips over the other side.


bobinthebul's picture

I like Cat Bordhi's method of casting on one extra stitch, then taking the first stitch (the extra one) or slip knot if you do it that way, and moving it over onto the needle with the first stitch you'll knit, then knitting them together. You can see it demonstrated on her YouTube video about knitting a Moebius. It makes a really solid join. I'm mostly a dpn person, so I just lay the needles flat to make sure my row isn't twisted. With magic loop, basically the same - move along the row and make sure what will be the bottom edges are facing each other before joining. Once that's done, you're set.