Koolhaas Hat By Jared Flood

So, I'm Sticking my hand's into the Koolhaas Cookie Jar, and let me tell you, it's not as easy as I was expecting. The lattice work, is very basic, but requires a lot of attention or you will mess up and have to frog a few rows.

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This is what I have so far

I hope to finish this by tomorrow

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purlyman's picture

I keep thinking about doing that hat but haven't gotten around to it yet. What you have so far looks beautiful though!


Thomasknits's picture

Yay! Lookin good. I like the color.


YarnGuy716's picture

That's been in my queue for some time. I'll get around to it eventually, but I still have 4 baby gifts to make...LOL

It does look like one of the projects that you have to pay attention to. Not something to work on while you're watching television or at a knitting meet-up. Looking forward to seeing you model the finished hat.

RickeScott's picture

I like it too. Looking for an interesting pattern after knitting the same hat about 12 times in the past 2 months. This could be it.

Jason1978's picture

'Why are you weeping? Did you imagine that I was immortal?'

You seem to be doing fine so far.....I've knitted this hat about 16 times now, and trust me, it gets easier as time passes

'Why are you weeping? Did you imagine that I was immortal?'

twistknit's picture

There was alot of frogging going on when I made Koolhaas. I just wasn't paying attention and made dumb mistakes. The hat looked awesome and I would make it again.

markymark's picture

Is everyone who's knitted the "Koolhaas" doing so with a cable needle?
If not could you share your secret for creating the one stitch cable
without the needle.

Many thanks,

Thomasknits's picture

What I did for the 1 over 1 cables in the Koolhaas: Slip both stitches to right needle, place left needle in 2nd (right hand) stitch on right needle (here you put the needle in front if you are crossing in front, and put the needle in back if crossing in back); next you slip BOTH stitches off the right needle and re-catch the one that isn't on the left needle with the right needle (being careful to keep it oriented correctly)...slip that stitch back to the left needle. Now the stitches are crossed, and you can knit across them (or purl if necessary for pattern). Seems like a long, confusing explanation, but once you get the hang of it, it is much quicker.
I think that knittinghelp.com has a video of this?


jwhassjr's picture

I'm working on my third Koolhaas Hat and really have come up with a couple of ways to help me keep in pattern. The first thing is you must learn to cross your stitches without a cable needle. There are a variety of methods to do this, but I believe I have maximized efficiency in my method which follows:
1. Keep in mind that this hat is basically knit in k2, p2 rib, you will always be knitting 2, then purling two (even with the crosses).
2. When working rows 1 and 5 of the pattern repeat, keep in mind that you will do the left purl cross when the yarn is in the front and the right purl cross when the yarn is in the back (I use a little letter association to help remember this (e.g. right cross when yarn is in the rear of the work). It's quirky, but it helps me.
3. When doing my crosses, I use my right needle and insert it into the back of the second stitch to be knit from the left needle when working the left purl cross (if you follow this technique, you can also associate the position of the left needle, which will be in front since the right needle is in the back loop of the stitch you're going to cross, with the position of the yarn, which will likewise be in front). After inserting the right needle into the back of the second stitch, I use my index finger and thumb of my right hand to hold the base of the two stitches to be knit next on the left needle and slip the them off the left needle. The one you inserted your right needle into will now be on the right needle, and you'll just pick up the free stitch with your left needle and they're crossed.
4. Since the yarn is in front, that means you will purl the stitch on your right needle. Most people will slip the stitch back over to the left needle and then purl it, but to me that's an extra step that takes more time. I just insert my left needle into the back of the loop of the stitch on my right needle and voila, you have the same result and are ready to purl that stitch. Then you'll move the yarn to the back and knit the next stitch through the back loop.
5. This is very similar to the previous two steps, but make note that the yarn is in the rear of the work, which means you'll be working a right purl cross. To do this, I insert my right needle, as if to purl, into the second stitch to be knit from the left needle (also take note that the left needle is in the rear which is another mental note that the yarn should also be in the rear of the work and this also means that since the yarn is in the back of the work you will be knitting the next stitch through the back loop).
6. Now you'll use your right index finger and thumb to secure the base of the two stiches on your left needle, and again slip the two stitches from the left needle. As before the stitch through which you inserted your right needle will remain on the right needle and you simply have to pick up the free or loose stitch with your left needle. Again, don't waste a step by slipping the stitch from the right needle to the left and then knit it through the back loop. If you'll just slip your left needle through the front of the loop from the back of the stitch you'll be oriented to just knit the stitch (similar to the maneuver when doing SSK after the two stitches have been slipped as if to knit). Also note that this is your second knit stitch (you did the first of these two knit stitches in step 4), so now move the yarn to the front and purl the next stitch and repeat steps 3 through six all the way around.

It's much more complicated to read than it is to do. After a couple of rounds, you'll really get the hang of it and then you'll be able to speed through the repeats without even having to look at the pattern.