Crafty Andy's picture

Holidays are here

I have not written much, but my scarf is coming along .  It just takes me a long time to knit, unless is a cable sweater, which I love.  I am looking forward to the new year and have in my goals make  some socks, which Ihave never done before.  I may even try ti knit a cap with the foru needles first before I do the socks.  I got mysel a nice holiday present, a set of Boye's circular needle set with interchangeable  needles.  What can I say I am a good bad boy.

 

 

socks

Hi,

I am in need of some guidance with socks.  I've been an avid sock knitter for two years and am tired of having to patch the holes where the heel meets the instep.  I have this problem whether doing a short row or heel flap-type heel.  Any suggestions?

thanks

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ChrisN15720's picture

custom mittens

this is the first pair of mittens i've made. i made these mittens for myself b/c i have REALLY long fingers and no mittens ever fit me. i had to alter the pattern a bit, but it didn't give me any problems. i'm looking forward to making another pair similar to these, it was loads of fun and kept me entertained for hours at a time.

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A scarf for my dad

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A hat for my son from knitty.com

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Increases - Stupid Mathematical Question

I'm knitting the sleeves to my sweater. Frankly they have been driving me a bit crazy since this is the 1st sweater I'm knitting that is not in the round. I've ripped more times than I care to admit.

The pattern calls for a M1 increase at each edge starting on the RS then every following 7th row. The "Following 7th row" instruction is a bit vague to me. Which option is correct?

Option 1
Row 0 (RS): Increase
* row 1 (WS): P
row 2 (RS): K
row 3 (WS): P
row 4 (RS): K
row 5 (WS): P
row 6 (RS): K
row 7 (WS): Increase *

or

Option 2
Row 1 (RS): Increase
* row 2 (WS): P
row 3 (RS): K

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The final design

Technique should be secondary to the final product. What is your conception? What do you, as knitter, want to produce? If I am working on a school sweater for a young, athletic child -- lots of running, playing, and moving involved -- I use durable yarn, lots of acrylic, machine washable and machine dryable, and a design that allows for movement. Usually a knit-in-the-round design, maybe using cut armholes or cut front for a cardigan. For a young woman's formal wear, I might use a tailored design, done flat on two needles and with seams to retain the shape of the sweater. The yarn is usually a fine yarn in luxurious fiber, perhaps cashmere, alpaca, or mohair. It all depends on the use intended for the end product.

Patterns

 Hi Guys & ladylurkers

Can anyone tell me why sweaters are designed in 2 pieces? Why are they not made in a circle? My daughter saw the Knit:1 magazine & was amused by the centrefold but spied the sweater with the mega, removable cowl collar of pages 58 & 59. It calls for the front and back to be knit in 2 pieces but the same pattern. Will it make any difference if I make it in one piece? I'm not a designer so not sure if it will affect the look. I do realise that I will have to careful about the armholes but that's what stitch markers arre for surely.
Thank you
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Theory of design

Been reading the entries on inspiration vs imitation and thinking that most of us seem to agree that it's OK to draw from a pool of common knitting knowledge for basic designs, ideas on decoration, and techniques for accomplishing our knitting. But just when does a design become uniquely one's own? Sometimes hard to say.

While looking at Ulf's Scandinavian sweater, I had the thought that his work was a unique production, indeed. Each of the components of his design had been used before. But the final combination was something that had not been seen before. And a very impressive sweater!

Weekly topic #2

Who taught you how to knit & how old were you?

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